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TOPIC: D1 Engine Rebuild

D1 Engine Rebuild 2 weeks 6 days ago #3587

  • Codydehart
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I got the D1 oil pan all bolted and sealed up; rotated the crank and didn't seam to experience any clearance issues. I initially rotated the crank with the spark plugs in to get the harmonic balancer bolt to the correct torque spec and when I did; I heard hissing from the center of the valley. I an assuming it was air leaking past the rings slowly. I am not sure that the rings will hold the full compression over a period of time without the rings being burnished into the cylinder walls. I am going to run the 400 mile break-in cycle on the motor and then do a leak down test.


I also managed to get the motor back into the D1 this weekend, but the bad part is I have to remove my oil pan to get to the flywheel bolts....If I had better tools this probably wouldn't be the case. But when I remove the oil pan, it will give me a second chance to confirm the oil pan doesn't need to be modified by a hammer. I might be able to remove it today, I will keep you guys updated.
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D1 Engine Rebuild 1 week 5 days ago #3625

  • Codydehart
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Moving way forward...I have the engine in the truck running like a dream. I has a ton of power and as smooth as can be...but I didn't get there without drama.

So backing up, I did have to remove my oil pan to get the four bold into the torque converter. The gasket material I used was amazing and it amazingling kicked my butt getting it free from the motor.
Once it was free, I did verify that the D1 oil pan did clear the 4.6 crank, but this could have been due to a thick gasket that was made.

When I built the motor, I skipped the step of packing the oil pump full of Vasoline, this is to help create oil suction on the initial start up. So what I did was take out the oil pressure gauge and pumped oil into that whole while randomly turning the motor in the reverse direction. This allows the oil pump to take on oil. (You need to have all spark plugs removed while doing this)

Once the oil pump couldn't take anymore oil, I put the oil pressure sensor back in place. This process took about half a quart.

The oil I used for my break in is the same oil I am running on the street now. I use Valvoline VR1 Conventional 20w -50 High Zinc then I put a zinc additive.

So the break in: I poured oil into the engine with the spark plugs out and fuel relay out. I then hooked jumper cables up to my Rover and turned the motor over several times to gain suction from the oil pump. Then I put spark plugs and relay back in place.

The official startup, The engine wanted to start and then sputtered and died, the second try I gave it some gas and she fired up strong. The engine sounded slightly noisy but then got extremely quiet after 30 to 45 secs. This is after the tappets got good and full of oil.

Break in Procedure: The Procedure calls for immediate 2,000 rpm for 20 mins. This makes it where the oil will splash the cam. I was able to achieve this without any issues. I was actually around 2,500 rpm for 20 min.

After the break in I did some street driving, the engine ran smooth but did die every once in a while after running and then coming to a stop. I put 40 miles on the rig and then changed the oil again with the oil mentioned above.

The drama: During those 40 miles the engine was running hot, I was getting temps around 230 F. Now I had this problem before I changed the motor and I did have a head gasket issue so I had oil in my coolant with the old setup. I decided to get a new aluminum 4 core radiator from Amazon for $300 to the house. It took some modification but nothing too bad. I drove the Rover to work today and it seems to run nice and quiet and cool.

To summarize; I could not be happier with the results. I have 433 gears with 33" tires and this thing is a monster. I know I could tow another rover and trailer behind this rig.

If you are thinking about doing a similar build, I recommend pulling the trigger and just do it.
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