Air strut replacement for a novice

Ok fellow Rover Lovers... getting the 2008 LR3 ready for family road trip to the Rockies this next week and discovered a leaky front air bag as I was doing the brakes. So, Atlantic British is rushing a new one to me and I’ll be installing it myself. I’ve had others replaced by my local LR genius but with the time crunch and expenses as they are I’m motivated to do this myself. I’ve watched the AB video tutorial and will watch a few more by others before we swap it. Looking for any tips and tricks not covered in those videos.

I do not have the electronic tool to deflate so I’ll plan to crack the nut on the air line a hair and let it bleed out before removing the strut.

Specifically interested in y’all’s thoughts on airing the system back up... initiate that with it still in the air or should that be done with weight on it? Full weight or partial weight? And then there’s “recalibration” for ride height... if that is not done by a dealer/shop with the LR computer, or a gap tool (neither of which I have) is it just the physical level of the truck that may be off or will this throw the truck into limp mode on its bump stops? It is a Rover after all... a tad bit particular

Thank you for the help and wisdom!

When I did mine, I replaced both front struts and used a Gap Diagnostics IIDTool. I'm not sure how much time you have, and I know that adds a lot of expense, but replacing both struts will save you replacing the other side shortly, and the IIDTool will give you control over the air-suspension. I would suggest patience, having the right tools and if you have any reservations involving a professional like Oliver's Automotive or North Texas British

Thank you Don! Sorry for the delay, but preparations for our family road trip in addition to normal life meant that the week before we left was quite full. I had a friend come over and help replace the air strut before we left town. It was refreshingly simple. I ordered one from Atlantic British and had to expedite shipping but even with that it was still right about $300. I had to buy a few tools I did not have on hand and those set me back an additional $75. Well worth it to have those tools on hand now. I’ll share the link to a video that made the whole process much easier. It involves removing an engine bay heat shield to expose the top of the strut bracket. No bleeding buckles with this trick. I watched 5-6 other videos on this and his was the only one to suggest that. Made a huge difference! The other front strut was replaced last year by Oliver’s under this LR3’s original owner so we’ve got the front taken care of now. I released the pressure in the system through the front valve block. I was also amazed at how easily accessed that block is and how easy it will be to replace that in the future. The system compressor was just replaced with a donor unto from another vehicle and a new dryer assembly was put on it. It’s working, but sounds horrible and I think it’s running too often. I’m sure that will be my next upgrade. Wondering if anyone has successfully upgraded that compressor with the addition of using it for onboard air to use for inflating tires. Seems a shame to have a built in compressor and have to add another just for tires...

By the way, I love Olivers shop and the crew there. I will always go their first for things beyond my ability or understanding. They are amazing and have helped keep this truck running like new for many many years now. I’m more hands on than the original owner so I’ll take care of what I’m comfortable with and let them do the (ahem) more eccentric repairs.

Here’s the link I referenced earlier. I don’t blindly follow this guys advice as he’s not always on point, but this one he got right.